EAT: L’asso Restaurant Goes Deep
192 Mott St. (at Kenmare Street)
Hours: Sun-Wed, 12pm-12am; Thurs-Sat, 12pm-3am
In a city with a thousand and one pizzerias, L’asso Restaurant is the only one who now offers the Chicago-style Deep-Dish pizza –but with its own New York spin. With high quality ingredients, from the sauce to the tomatoes to the way it’s made, the Nolita hot spot is definitely upping the ante for many local pizza joints –and even being bold enough as to say “We are ready to put L’asso’s Deep-Dish up against any pizzeria in Chicago.” With creative assistance from many Chicago natives and pizza experts, I’ve no problem believing them.
Known for their eclectic pizza combinations (think: handmade potato chips, ricotta, walnuts and rosemary) and their in-house marinara sauce, L’asso brings originality and class to pie making with heavy, thick crusts, ample amounts of cheese and fresh ingredients, in addition to their traditional D.O.C. methods. Essentially the Bill of Rights for Pizza, D.O.C. says that high quality San Marzano tomatoes must be used. Check. Pizza should only be made with “pure cheese fresh from the milk of buffalo.” Check. And thou shall only use the oil of an olive tree. Check. Sure these standards for pizza making are more expensive in a city full of inexpensive ingredients, but L’asso has no worries in that department –which is a benefit to us all.
Principles aside, for meat lovers there’s L’asso Supreme with sausage, mozzarella, onions and mushrooms with grated ricotta salata, as well as the Albondiga (homemade meatballs, tomato sauce, mozzarella, onions and fresh garlic). Vegetarians would be hard pressed not to try the famous Margherita that’s big on sauce, mozzarella, oregano, basil, and extra virgin olive oil. With a friendly staff, lively selection of music and relaxing atmosphere, L’asso brings freshness to a sometimes stale pizza game.